![]() ![]() anti-static workbench) just dropping the screw in the "hole" won't work like it does on #3 and #4. Hole #1 is an open bracket but this isn't obvious from the shadows (at least at my kitchen table, er. * Screw #1 was a challenge to get started back in the hole - I needed a magnet on the screwdriver to keep the screw attached to it. ![]() * Check the Airport antenna connector before re-assembling - it'll try to come loose from the board (seen in the background of the OP's pic with the brown ribbon connector). If you haven't done this before, take note of how far inserted the old DIMMs are before you remove them. * Seating the memory DIMMs is a tight fit - while at a slight angle, they need to be pressed into the slot until the top edge of the gold contacts are barely visible this can take a pretty firm hand. ![]() You really need a small Philips head with these screws, and the screwdriver needs to be fairly skinny and long (a la pocket screwdriver style). * On mine, screw #2 is an oddball with a wider head. A flat screwdriver would work for this 2nd tool too. * I used 2 putty knives - the first one to pry the base upward (i.e., outward on the shell, as the OP described), and a second putty knife following behind it, catching notches in the side of the base to keep it from dropping back down. In a pinch, one could slide a flat chef's knife in the gap just to make the crack wide enough to get the putty knife started (don't pry with a knife). I had to use a pretty slim putty knife (it'd been sharpened to a knife edge, actually, for a prior project) the first putty knife was too thick to wedge in the crack without marring the case getting it in. * The gap in the case is pretty tight between the white base and the silver shell. ![]()
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December 2022
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